La Licorne

MAASTRICHT

 

A long, looong time ago, the prevailing weather was tropical in this region. Strange birds flew over high waters which were inhabited by monstrous animals. With the arrival of a temperate climate, the sea receded and the animals found a last resting place on the Sint Pietersberg, named after the Gatekeeper of Heaven.

 

 

 

Maas Lizard (Mosasaurus) in action

Image by Charles R Knight, 1899

 

In the year 57 BC legions of Caesar marched up against a tribe that lived in the surroundings of this Mount Saint Peter. Under the rule of their king Ambiorix, the Eburons gave the invaders a hard time in fierce battles, which was supported by trickery. Ultimately however, the fight was settled to the advantage of the better equipped Romans. From that time the Eburons walked out of the history books, but in recent times made a formidable come back in a series of comics which confirm their courage and reveal a remarkable sense of humor.

Eburons giving the Romans a hard time

After 'Asterix en de Belgen'

The Romans provided stability and safety to the region, and a prosperous time followed. At significant traffic junctions settlements developed. Tongeren in present Belgium was the first one of those acquiring Civitas [City] status. At a site north of Mount Saint Peter, where a rivulet the Jeker discharges into the river Maas, the Romans decided to make a permanent river crossing. This location became known as Mosam Traiectum, which means Maas Crossing. Out of the military camps on either side, the colony Maastricht and its smaller counterpart Wijk developed.

 

 

Being located at the center of traffic, both on the river and by land, and having a fertile hinterland, these settlements flourished under the protection of the military shield. In the year 320 AD the first Bishop of Tongeren founded a chapel in Maastricht. A later Bishop came to stay in Maastricht and died there on the 13th of May 383. This Servatius, or Servaas, has been the devoted Patron Saint of the town ever since. The magnificent Cathedral in the center of Maastricht is named after him.

 

When Roman rule came to an end, Franc invaders took over to settle in a territory that stretched from Maastricht to deep into the south. During the centuries that followed new raiders would come and go, e.g. the Goths and the Normans, but they would not prevent society from gradually shaping itself into firm structures with cities as the centers of manufacture, craft, trade and culture. For Maastricht the fast running streams offered ready power for mills which were used for grinding. In the middle of the 13th century the first volmolen of the Netherlands was built in Maastricht. This fulling mill turned the loose hand-made woolen material into firm fabric of higher value. Later, mills appeared for other industrial processes such as for the preparation of leather, paper, beer, etceteras.

 

At first the city had been significant for its possession of the northern-most bridge across the river Maas, which was a vital link on the route from Flanders to Rhineland, now it became also important as a checkpoint for the traffic on the river, which was of strategic importance for military interventions against Holland by troops coming from the south.

 

The earthen defense wall of Maastricht from about 1200 AD was soon replaced by a stone wall. Before this was completed the need for a second wall became apparent, which would embrace city expansion for housing, monasteries and manufacturing besides including some land for food security in times of siege. The construction of the second wall started around 1300. Its alignment would determine the city limits for the centuries to come. It started again as an earth wall to provide instant protection. The required material was obtained by digging a trench on the outside. Later the earth wall was replaced by a stone structure, and provided with gates and bastions, which were incessantly reinforced.

Many times the town stood siege, but the desire for control over it made armies persist so overwhelmingly that several times the brave citizens had to give up. Alternately  Holland, Spain and France managed to take the town. The sieges encouraged the construction and perfection of forwardly extended defense works in the period from 1500 to 1800. These comprised a system of ramparts, moats and underground corridors. Where conditions allowed, water from the Maas and Jeker would be let into the moats to form additional obstacles, but on the higher grounds this was not feasible. One gets an idea of the topography when walking from the Old Bridge in a western direction. First the terrain is rather level, but from the Saint Servaas Church up to the Brussels Gate there is a distinct climb. The defense works beyond Brussels Gate were called the Hoge Fronten. These High Fronts were provided with an intricate underground network of Kazematten (Casemates) that was extended outwards to facilitate the undermining of enemy positions. In order to give additional protection, forts were built on elevated spots on either side of the High Fronts: Fort Sint Pieter and Fort Willem.

compilation Pith

All these additions were so numerous and perfected that the defense works of Maastricht became famous. It was not without reason that the French Defense Engineer Dumoulin pronounced in 1747: 'Nous ne laisserons jamais derrière nous une place de cette importance'; and in 1803 Napoléon to his Minister of War: 'Cette place, qui est la seule que nous ayons comme point d’appui d’une armée sur le bas Rhin, devrais être tenue dans un très-bon état.'

 

This could not prevent those monumental works from losing significance in the course of the nineteenth century. When their abolishment set in, quite a bit disappeared but a good portion survived and can still be seen all over the town. The greatest chunk of the remains is being protected as a reserve under the name De Werken [The Works].

 

Brussels Gate and its forwardly extended works were removed for city expansion in the beginning of last century. As time went on the city did marvelous in investing in its heritage and upgrading it for new challenges. The resulting grandeur bought the French Président François Mitterrand to exclaim: 'Quelle ville!', when visiting the city for the signing of the Maastricht Treaty in 1990.

 

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Post War Things

De Tafel (NL)

After That

 

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